beginner


# 1001 reason to start with Tiny Whoop

## 1. It's fun

Flying a Tiny Whoop is a lot of fun. It's a great way to relax and have fun. It's a great way to get away from the stress of everyday life.


1001 reason to start with Tiny Whoop


## Intro I cannot skip

Flying an FPV drone is a lot like learning to play a musical instrument: it requires a lot of time and dedication, and the learning curve is steep.
Sometimes, learning to fly involves repeating the same exercise over and over again, with full focus and attention to every mistake.
At other times, it's "noodling" — just flying aimlessly or improvising as you go.
Sometimes it's a state of flow — you are just flying, having no idea how.

### Quality over Quantity

One fully focused session advances your progress way farther than hours of mindless flying. Mindless flying could also solidify bad habits, that would be hard to unlearn.

### Quantity over Quality

Enjoy every moment of your new hobby, repeating exercises with clenched teeth will suck the soul out of it. Fly mindlessly, crash, have fun.
Turn it into a leisure activity, practice often, it's not a chore.

### The state of gear

Prepare to be frustrated, the quality of most FPV gear isn't great. Gear might be broken from the start, break after a few uses, or just not work with the rest of your setup.
Crashes are inevitable, so even the best gear is going to break. Sometimes parts don't work together, often extensive tuning is required.

Soldering is one of the basic skills you'll need (good news: it's not hard at all).

That said, flying an FPV drone (or just flying) is one of the most rewarding experiences you can have.

<TLDR title='Dive into the Sky' />

- Fly 5-10 hours in [Liftoff®: Micro Drones simulator](https://store.steampowered.com/app/1432320/Liftoff_Micro_Drones/) using a gamepad.
- Borrow or [buy a transmitter](/posts/01.beginner/30.choosing-transmitter/index.mdx) and continue practicing in the simulator.
- [Buy a Tiny Whoop](/posts/01.beginner/40.1001-reason-to-tiny-whoop/index.mdx) and a pair of cheap used goggles.
- Crash 100 times before investing in a more expensive gear.
- Personalize your drone by tuning flight controller and modding / repairing.
- Join your local FPV community.
- At this point, you'll know what to do next.

## Start with a Simulator, aim for a Tiny Whoop

Before rushing to buy any gear, try a simulator first. Piloting an FPV drone isn't easy for most people.
Start with a simulator, or you will hurt someone, and break your gear.
You might lose interest after 10-30 hours in a simulator, which could save you from spending on expensive gear and the time it takes to set everything up.

I've seen some people advise against using a gamepad for piloting, but I started with a PlayStation controller connected to a PC, and it worked out fine for me.
Especially if you are a seasoned gamer, no need to discard your years of experience. The transition to a real transmitter will be just fine.

I recommend everyone to [start with a Tiny Whoop](/posts/01.beginner/40.1001-reason-to-tiny-whoop/index.mdx) and I will die on this hill.
Considering this, [Liftoff®: Micro Drones](https://store.steampowered.com/app/1432320/Liftoff_Micro_Drones/) is an excellent choice.
The experience it offers is close enough to flying a real drone. This simulator will help you choose your first Tiny Whoop drone.
Whether it's 65mm, 75mm, or 85mm, 1S or 2S, bi-blades or tri-blades — there's a lot to consider.
(Don't forget to check out the [Steam Workshop](https://steamcommunity.com/app/1432320/workshop/) for community-made drone models).
The game is available on PC, macOS, Linux, and SteamOS. Network multiplayer allows you to fly with friends or compete with experienced strangers.

Try whatever is available. I haven't tried [Tiny Whoop GO (Games Online)](https://tinywhoopgo.com/), but it's free.
Maybe there's something included in PlayStation Plus or Xbox Game Pass — go for it.

There are plenty of other simulators, [Drone Champions League released its official Game](https://store.steampowered.com/app/964570/DCL__The_Game/), and even though it could get you qualified for a real-life drone racing event, I still recommend to start with TinyWhoop.

## Continue with a Real Transmitter

One of the options at this point, is to buy an RTF (Ready-To-Fly) kit: a drone, a transmitter, and a pair of goggles in one box.

The next step is to pilot [using a real transmitter](/posts/01.beginner/30.choosing-transmitter/index.mdx).

## Choosing a Tiny Whoop

There is a lot to consider, and it's all about personal preference. I can only guide you with questions and personal experience.

## Budget & Fun!

There are decent drones and kits aimed for beginners, they could be cheaper and / or more durable, often easier to start with. Problem is, one overgrows them fairly quickly, and they become boring.
Of course, 'fairly quickly' could be months if you're not flying often.

My budget was tight, so I went straight for a used Mobula7 and I love it. (I was also considering Meteor 75, but the second-hand market is limiting, Mobula came first).
On the downside, I had spent at least 20 hours (a few weekends and evenings) in Betaflight, ESC configurator, and Edge TX, before I could fly it. On the upside, I learned a lot, and I tuned mine to my liking.

### Cinamatic vs Racing & Freestyle

Anything able to shoot a decent footage is at least twise as expensive, learning to fly on it is riskier. On the other hand, buying something cheaper and then upgrading bears its own costs <nobr>¯\_(ツ)\_/¯</nobr>.
I went for the cheapest used Eachine EV800 googles (analog VTX), and I'm OK with it. I can not record my flights, the signal strength is far from great, and the image is not the best, but I fly a real drone.
People new to FPV often ask if analog is that bad and should they go straight for digital — "it depends, and I know the answer for myself now."

### Two-blade vs Three-blade propellers

Two-blade propellers are more efficient, they have dymamic response — better acceleration and max speed. In theory, they provide longer flight time.
Three-blade propellers provide better grip, enabling sharper turns and better control with less inertia.

### Frame size: 65mm vs 75mm vs 85mm

This is where simulators shine. You can try different drones without buying. The frame size is more about the fill: maneurability, speed, acceleration, flight time — everything comes to play at once, and it's hard to describe.

I would go with 65mm for **indoors**, but I don't fly indoors because drones (even tiny ones) are loud, and I have a small kid. On the other hand, rain (even a drizzle), or a mild wind makes outdoors flying impossible — something to consider.
75mm feel great **outdoors**, and I was able to tame it indoors, especially with motors locked at 70% throttle.

85mm is the same as 3-inch, so it's like a toothpick with prop guards. It is powerful but more heavy.

### Battery size: 1S vs 2S

I was thinking that battery size affects the flight time, boy was I wrong.
First of all, the battery size affects the weight, so inertia and maneurability. Second, the weight affects the flight time (smaller battery could provide longer flight time due to its weight).
But most of all, the battery size affects the power output, so the speed and acceleration. With the real drone, throttle is never truly linear. With some batteries, you give the full throttle, and they lag, with others, they give power instantly but have a noticeable sag afterwards.
So again, it's more about the feel, but in this case, simulators show only a part of the picture.

### Types of FPV Drones

**Tiny Whoops**: Small, agile drones perfect for indoor flying and beginners.
**Cinewhoops**: Slightly larger, designed for capturing smooth, cinematic footage.
**Racing Drones**: Built for speed and agility, used in FPV racing.
**Freestyle Drones**: Optimized for acrobatics and creative flying styles.

### Types of FPV Kits

#### RTF (Ready-To-Fly)

Description: RTF kits are the most user-friendly option, coming fully assembled and with everything you need to start flying right out of the box. This includes the drone, a transmitter (remote controller), batteries, and often a charger. The drone is pre-configured, so you won't need to bind the transmitter or install any components before your first flight.
**Ideal For**: Beginners or those looking for a hassle-free entry into FPV flying, as well as experienced pilots who prefer not to deal with assembly or configuration processes.

Getting Started with FPV

Start with a Tiny Whoop or a beginner-friendly RTF (Ready-To-Fly) kit. These are less expensive and more durable, ideal for learning the basics.

Understanding the Gear:

Drone: The vehicle you'll be flying, equipped with motors, ESCs (Electronic Speed Controllers), a flight controller, and an FPV camera.
Transmitter (Radio Controller): The handheld device used to control the drone.
Goggles: The headset that provides the FPV feed from the drone's camera.
Batteries: FPV drones typically use LiPo (Lithium Polymer) batteries.

Basic Flight Concepts
Throttle Control: Controls the altitude of your drone. More throttle lifts the drone, less throttle lowers it.

Safety and Regulations
Know the Rules:

Always be aware of your local regulations regarding drone flying. This may include no-fly zones, altitude limits, and registration requirements.

Safety First:

Never fly near people, private property, or sensitive areas.

Always keep your drone within line of sight, unless using FPV goggles under specific conditions allowed by regulations.

Maintenance and Troubleshooting

Regular Checks:

Before each flight, check your drone for any loose parts or damage.

Ensure your batteries are charged and stored safely.

Learning Repairs:

Crashes are part of the learning process. Learning to repair your drone is an invaluable skill in the FPV world.

Joining the Community

Connect with Others:

The FPV community is vast and welcoming. Join online forums, social media groups, and local flying clubs to learn from experienced pilots and stay updated on the latest in FPV.
Practice and Patience
Take Your Time:

Mastery takes time and practice. Start with basic maneuvers and gradually progress to more complex flights.
Enjoy the Journey:

FPV flying is not just about the destination but the thrill of the flight. Enjoy every moment, from the first hover to acrobatic flips.
FPV drones offer a unique and immersive flying experience, blending the lines between technology, sport, and art. Welcome to the world of FPV flying—your adventure begins now!


A Beginners Guide to FPV Drones


<TLDR title='I use Radiomaster Zorro (ExpressLRS)' />

- I used to gamepad (thumber 👍)
- I don't need an overwhelming number of switches; my go-to's are arm, mode, beeper, and turtle
- I fly one quad
- I'm a regular in the simulator (Bluetooth, baby - no wires attached!)
- 2 hours of flying is plenty
- I don't need a fancy screen (I'm wearing goggles anyway)

## Compatibility

Make sure the protocol lines up so your Transmitter (TX) and your drone can bind.

[![Transmitter and drone can't understand each other](/images/drone-transmitter-protocols.webp)](/posts/01.beginner/20.protocols-expresslrs-elrs-fcc-lbt-frsky-access-tbs-crossfire-tracer-immersionrc-ghost/index.mdx)

## Ergonomics

Regardless of what you're flying, the controller in your hands can make or break the experience.
However, trying to find the perfect transmitter right from the start can be challenging.
You might not realize what suits you best until you've experimented with a few.
Everyone's hands and preferences are different - long sticks or short sticks, no resistance or tactile feedback, switches, sliders, or buttons, and so forth.

### Pinchers🫰 vs Thumbers 👍.

There's no right or wrong way to hold your transmitter; it's all about what works for you.
Personally, I prefer thumbing. Pinching just ends up with my fingers fighting each other, and I get tired more quickly.

## Range and Signal Strength

<TLDR title='It depends 🤷‍♂️ I fly with 50mW TX' />

There's a dependency between range and signal strength (which also impacts battery life). Although, it's not a linear relationship, and numerous factors are at play.
Direct Line of Sight (LOS) is the most significant factor. The more obstacles, the more the signal will degrade.
Interference from electrical lines, Wi-Fi, other pilots, and even the weather can impact your signal.

On the example of ExpressLRS, they've got a [leaderboard](https://www.expresslrs.org/info/long-range/)

The current (Mar 2024) records are:

| Max Dist. | Freq | Pkt Rate | TX Power | Type |
| --------- | ---- | -------- | -------- | ---- |
| 31.56km   | 2.4G | 50Hz     | 50mW     | Wing |
| ...       | ...  | ...      | ...      | ...  |
| 10Km      | 2.4G | 500Hz    | 10mW     | Quad |

This is an extreme example, but it's an indicator of what's possible.

For ExpressLRS, the 100mW TX (with a good antenna) should be more than enough, the video feed will likely become the limiting factor earlier.

## Number of channels

When choosing a transmitter, consider the number of channels it supports.
More channels mean more functions you can control on your drone, from the basics like throttle, pitch, and yaw, to extras like camera tilt and lights.

## Module Expansion Bay

A module bay enables the addition of another protocol, frequency, or increased power to your transmitter.
It's essential to verify that the module is not only compatible with your transmitter but also fits properly within the module bay.

## External Antenna Support

An external antenna can significantly improve your transmitter's range and signal strength.

## Telemetry capabilities

Telemetry allows your drone to send real-time data back to your transmitter, like battery voltage, signal strength, and GPS position.
If you plan to use telemetry in real-time, a big bright screen definitely won't hurt. But I have no idea how to use it simultaneously with FPV goggles.

## FPV simulator support (Joystick mode)

This feature lets you use your transmitter as a joystick, providing a seamless transition from virtual to real-world flying.
It's a fantastic way to practice without risking your drone.

## Budget Considerations and Recommendations (150 words)

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    Price range for beginners

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    Recommended models for different budgets

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Choosing a Transmitter


This post is your go-to guide, designed to help beginners navigate the essentials of Li-Po battery maintenance and hygiene, ensuring your flights are not just exhilarating but also safe.

<TLDR />

- Store at ~80% charge
- Never discharge below 20%

# Lithium Polymer (Li-Po) batteries

Li-Po batteries are the lifeblood of FPV drones, favored for their ability to store large amounts of energy in a lightweight package, and able to discharge that energy quickly.
This makes your drone agile and responsive, capable of impressive feats in the air. However, their chemistry also makes them more volatile than wide spread Li-Ion batteries.
Understanding the temperament of Li-Po batteries is the first step towards harnessing their power safely.

To put it simply, Li-Po batteries 🔋 **burn** 🔥 hot and fast when things go wrong.

## Basic Maintenance Tips

### Storage

Li-Po batteries charged to 100% and not used for 1-2 days will degrade faster and can swell. Store them at **~3.8V per cell**.
So 4S battery should be stored at around 15.2V (3.8V \* 4 cells).

### Charging

Use a charger _specifically designed_ for Li-Po batteries, and never leave them unattended while charging.

Cheap charges can be dangerous as they can overcharge the battery and/or overheat itself with the similar consequences.
Overcharging is a big no-no, as it can lead to fires.

Patience is a virtue; charge at a moderate rate 🔌 to prolong battery life.

A fireproof charging bag is a small investment for peace of mind. Search for "Li-Po safe" or "Li-Po fireproof bag".

![Li-Po batteries safe fireproof bag](/images/li-po-safe.webp)

### Discharging

Never discharge a Li-Po battery below **3.0V per cell**. This can cause a battery to die on the spot, and extreme discharge definitely will reduce the battery's lifespan.

### Handling

The drone would often crash on a battery, so it's important to check the battery for any damage after a crash.
If the battery is punctured, swollen, or damaged in any way, it's best to retire it not risking turning your drone into a blazing fireball.

Avoid extreme temperatures, both hot and cold, as they can damage the battery, and don't leave them in direct sunlight.

## Gear

Avoid cheap chargers and batteries. You risking your drone and your home.
A good charger could not only charge but also discharge and balance the cells. It's a good idea to have a charger that can charge multiple batteries at once.

### 4-6S Li-Po Battery Charger

#### iMax B6AC — avoid 🚫

I saw this [reddit post](https://www.reddit.com/r/fpv/comments/1akxvmq/daily_reminder_to_charge_in_a_safe_place/) about burning Li-Po batteries and in the commnents they named iMax B6AC as the culprit.
[![reddit post about burning Li-Po batteries](/images/reddit-imaxb6ac.webp)](https://www.reddit.com/r/fpv/comments/1akxvmq/daily_reminder_to_charge_in_a_safe_place/)

I bought my Mobula 7 from a guy who burned four 1S batteries with the same charger. I saw V2 of the charger on the market, but I'm not sure if it's safe to use.

#### HOTA D6 Pro — recommended ✅

Everyone and their dog recommends the [HOTA D6 Pro](https://hobbymatehobby.com/products/hobbymate-d6-duo-pro-lipo-battery-charger-support-ac-dc-input) charger.
**Disclaimer**: I don't have it, so do your own research.

Here is a review by Matt Pochwat:
[![YouTube video "What Makes a Great LiPo Charger? - Hobbymate D6 Duo Pro" by Matt Pochwat](https://img.youtube.com/vi/No0sv3GgwdE/0.jpg)](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=No0sv3GgwdE)

### 1S Tiny Whoop Li-Po Battery Charger

Whether to use a dedicated charger for 1S batteries or a "grown-up" 4-6S charger with a parallel charging board is a somewhat polarizing topic.
I don't have enough knowledge about batteries chemistry but if you plan to fly only Tiny Whoop, then 1S charger is **3-5 times cheaper** than a big one.

#### Betafpv 6 Ports 1S Battery Charger — on a tight budget

I bought the [Betafpv 6 Ports 1S Battery Charger](https://betafpv.com/products/bt2-0-ph2-0-1s-lipo-charger-adapter) and it's a good charger for the price.
[![betafpv 6 ports 1s battery charger](/images/betafpv-6-ports-1s-battery-charger.webp)](https://betafpv.com/products/bt2-0-ph2-0-1s-lipo-charger-adapter)
It can charge up to 6 batteries, both BT2.0 and PH2.0 connectors.
It has a USB-C input, so you can use a power bank to charge the batteries on the go.

I had to return it because it doesn't have discharge function, and it was a deal breaker for me.
I would charge multiple batteries, fly one, and then got to do something else, or the weather changed, and I had to discharge the batteries with the drone at home to store them safely.

#### VIFLY WhoopStor 3 1S Battery Storage Charger and Discharger

I own the [VIFLY WhoopStor 3 1S Battery Storage Charger and Discharger](https://viflydrone.com/collections/hot-products/products/vifly-whoopstor-6-ports-1s-battery-storage-charger-discharger) now and I love it.
[![vifly whoopstor 6 ports 1s battery storage charger discharger](/images/vifly-whoopstor-6-ports-1s-battery-storage-charger-discharger.webp)](https://viflydrone.com/collections/hot-products/products/vifly-whoopstor-6-ports-1s-battery-storage-charger-discharger)
It can charge and discharge up to 6 batteries at once, meaning I don't have to care which battery is charged and which is discharged — put all of them in and press the button.
It also has USB-C input, and BT2.0 and PH2.0 connectors, Additionally, it has XT60 input, so one could use 2S-6S battery to charge 1S batteries.

It can handle 6V-26V (XT60 2S-6S Battery, DC), or 9V-20V (USB-C), in case you are in a hurry and want to charge faster, you can use more power (for the price of battery life).


Li-Po batteries maintenance


## What?

Protocol is a language of transmitter (aka TX) in your hands and the drone's receiver (RX). They simply MUST understand the common language for the drone to fly.
It works like:

- You twist the trottle gimbal
- Transmitter to drone: "throttle 42"
- Drone: "42, understood — _motors buzzing_"

So whatever letters are there: TBS, ELRS, Crossfire — they must be the same letters, and the same version (V1, V2, V3...), definitely the same radio frequency (900MHz, 2.4GHz).

## Which to choose?

<TLDR title='Express LRS (ELRS)' />

#### Pros

- Long range allows to fly far
- Low-latency
- Very stable protocol, giving firm control over the flight
- The equipment is cheaper than other long-range systems, both transmitters and receivers
- Open, popular, and widely available. Some protocols are closed within the same ecosystem, meaning that the choice of drones, transmitters, accessories is limited by ths ecosystem.

#### Cons

- Could require a bit of setup, not as plug-and-play as Frsky

### ExpressLRS FCC vs LBT

FCC (Federal Communications Commission) is for the USA, LBT (Listen Before Talk) is for Europe. The difference is in the allowed power of the signal. FCC is more powerful, but it's illegal to use it in Europe. LBT is less powerful, but legal in Europe.
LBT (Listen Before Talk) is a requirement in the European Union's radio regulations, governed by ETSI (European Telecommunications Standards Institute). LBT requires devices to check if a frequency channel is clear before transmitting, to reduce interference with other devices.

### Other protocols

If you're still curious about other protocols, [RChobbylab has a great comparison table](https://rchobbylab.com/fpv-radio-protocol/)


Protocols: ExpressLRS, TBS, Frsky, oh my 🤯

gear

Eachine EV800

BetaFPV Meteor75


## Introduction

The Happymodel Mobula7 stands out in the whoop drone market. It's known for performance and durability. This drone suits both beginners and experienced pilots. Its features and price make it competitive, especially against drones like the Betafpv Meteor75.
Design and Build

The Mobula7 is sleek and lightweight. Its frame is strong, designed for both indoor and outdoor flights. The drone weighs less than 30 grams without a battery. The V2 frame increases its toughness, making it reliable for various flying conditions.

## Performance

The Mobula7 is fast and agile. It handles well, making tight turns easy. The drone remains stable even at high speeds. Battery life varies by usage but typically lasts 4-6 minutes. Charging takes about 30 minutes.

## Features

The camera on the Mobula7 provides clear FPV footage. Pilots can choose from multiple flight modes, catering to different skill levels. Its unique feature is the "turtle mode," allowing it to flip back over after a crash.
Comparison with Similar Drones

Compared to the Betafpv Meteor75, the Mobula7 is slightly heavier but more durable. Both have similar flight times. The Meteor75 may have a slight edge in camera clarity, but the Mobula7 excels in agility and price value.

## Pros and Cons

Pros:

    Durable design
    Good battery life for its size
    Versatile flight modes

Cons:

    Slightly heavier than some competitors
    Camera could be better in low light

## Conclusion and Recommendation

The Mobula7 is ideal for anyone looking for a robust and agile whoop drone. It offers great value, suitable for a wide range of pilots. Its performance and features make it a strong contender in its class.

This revised approach should provide a clearer, more factual review. Would you like to add or modify anything in these sections?


FPV drone . zone

#SupportUkraine

FPVdrone.zone

BEGINNER

A Beginners Guide to FPV Drones

Protocols: ExpressLRS, TBS, Frsky, oh my 🤯

Choosing a Transmitter

1001 reason to start with Tiny Whoop

Li-Po batteries maintenance

GEAR

Eachine EV800

Happymodel Mobula7

Radiomaster TX16S

Radiomaster Zorro Max

Drone, transmitter, goggles, what else?